Today I’m finally testing the Sega Pri Fun printer that I bought 4-5 years ago. Back then it was still sealed.
The printer was marketed by Sega in 1995 as an add-on for the Pico and Saturn game consoles. You won’t find much information about it in the WWW except a small article at Sega Retro or a commercial on YouTube.
Recently I found a CDI 220/00 with Mini MMC mainboard. It’s a heavy and bulky unit that contains lot of PCBs, wires, screws and metal parts. It’s one of the first consumer CD-i players, later models have all components on one single mainboard (Mono).
I’ve been struggling with a weak PC-FX laser for quite some time. What kept me from changing the laser or pickup unit was that having to take apart (and put it together later) the PC-FX is something you wouldn’t wish your worst enemy. However, getting close to the drive unit is surprisingly easy, just follow this guide.
While removing the throttle wheel from the stick unit I noticed two small plastic rings connected by a spring jumping away. It took me quite some time to figure out the correct position when assembling the stick. In case you encounter this problem too, this is how the rings have to sit on the throttle wheel:
When looking for a modification to improve the video size/quality of DVC games on my PAL CD-i player I’ve found that two tutorials only are covering that kind of modification (here / here and here). The modification enables PAL player to display full screen video without the black bars on top and bottom. NTSC players benefit from this modification too as there are PAL exclusive software titles that already have full screen video (e.g. De Zaak van Sam) – without the modification parts of the screen are cut off.
Unfortunately the mainboard of my CD-i 220 differs to those used in the tutorials, so I had to get a service manual to figure it out myself. The service manual I found is valid for the Philips CD-i players CDI 220/20 220/25 220/39 (PAL) and CDI 220/31 220/37 (NTSC). It says there is an unimplemented connector 1201 in square C6 of the mainboard:
If you drop a Xbox 360 controller don’t let it land on it’s bumper buttons. The micro-switches break easily in the inside. They might still work but need more pressure to be triggered. This problem plagues old Sega Saturn gamepads too.
To open Xbox 360 controllers you need a special Torx security screwdriver with a hole in the tip, size T8H. If you don’t have this rather unusual screwdriver you can break the tiny pins in the screws and unscrew them with a regular T8 or T9 Torx screwdriver. Seven screws need to be removed (yellow circles). One of them is hidden behind the white sticker with the barcode and not behind the black sticker where I looked for it first (red circle).