The other day I prepared my Atari Jaguar to build a rotary controller for Tempest 2000. I hadn’t used it in a while and accidently picked the wrong power supply – smoke was rising immediately from the console.
The culprit was easily found, chip U38 (MC34163DW):
Recently I found a CDI 220/00 with Mini MMC mainboard. It’s a heavy and bulky unit that contains lot of PCBs, wires, screws and metal parts. It’s one of the first consumer CD-i players, later models have all components on one single mainboard (Mono).
I’ve been struggling with a weak PC-FX laser for quite some time. What kept me from changing the laser or pickup unit was that having to take apart (and put it together later) the PC-FX is something you wouldn’t wish your worst enemy. However, getting close to the drive unit is surprisingly easy, just follow this guide.
If you drop a Xbox 360 controller don’t let it land on it’s bumper buttons. The micro-switches break easily in the inside. They might still work but need more pressure to be triggered. This problem plagues old Sega Saturn gamepads too.
To open Xbox 360 controllers you need a special Torx security screwdriver with a hole in the tip, size T8H. If you don’t have this rather unusual screwdriver you can break the tiny pins in the screws and unscrew them with a regular T8 or T9 Torx screwdriver. Seven screws need to be removed (yellow circles). One of them is hidden behind the white sticker with the barcode and not behind the black sticker where I looked for it first (red circle).