Jaguar Repair

Atari Jaguar Power/Sound Fix and Rotary Controller

The other day I prepared my Atari Jaguar to build a rotary controller for Tempest 2000. I hadn’t used it in a while and accidently picked the wrong power supply – smoke was rising immediately from the console.

The culprit was easily found, chip U38 (MC34163DW):

Toasted U38 (MC34163DW)
Toasted U38 (MC34163DW)

I haven’t been careful enough during the removal and lifted three solder pads with the chip:

U38 (MC34163DW) removed
U38 (MC34163DW) removed

Fixed the upper pads and the trace to the resistor with Kynar wire:

U38 solder pad repair
U38 solder pad repair
Fixed U38 (MC34163DW)
Fixed U38 (MC34163DW)

The power problem was fixed, but there was no sound in the games. It seems that this is a common issue as there is no fuse protecting the power regulators. Fixes are being discussed here and here. The capacitor C134 was fine and didn’t need to be replaced, so I focused on the regulator REG1.

REG1 (LM78L05ACM)
REG1 (LM78L05ACM)

No accidents happened this time:

REG1 (LM78L05ACM) removed
REG1 (LM78L05ACM) removed
REG1 (LM78L05ACM) fixed
REG1 (LM78L05ACM) fixed

Done! Tempest 2000 is running fine again with sound.

Tempest 2000
Tempest 2000

My rotary controller is loosely based on this tutorial. For the first tests I used an Atari 2600 Driving Controller as encoder. It has 4 or 8 PPR (pulses per revolution) only and doesn’t make fun to play with as it moves the ship way too slow.

Atari Driving Controller
Atari Driving Controller

A better option is a 24 PPR Encoder, e.g. EN16. I went for the configuration EN16-H22AF15 with detents, i.e. it ‘clicks’ on every pulse. The knob of the Atari Driving Controller fits on the plastic shaft:

Jaguar Rotary Controller
Jaguar Rotary Controller
Jaguar Rotary Controller
Jaguar Rotary Controller

Be careful to solder the wires to the correct contacts of the ribbon cable (yellow circle), there are at least two different PCB layouts:

Jaguar Rotary Controller
Jaguar Rotary Controller

5 thoughts on “Atari Jaguar Power/Sound Fix and Rotary Controller”

  1. I just pulled my U38 and pulled a bottom pad on the right hand side.

    How can I replace the pad like you did? You ran kynar wire from the missing pad area to the resistor at the top of the chip?

    I would truly appreciate your help!

    1. Which pad did you pull? Only pad #7 must be connected to the resistor (and the via hole next to it).

      1. If you’re looking at the board from the front, I pulled the pad on the right hand side, two up from the lettering “U38”.

        I see what you mean. That trace to ran to the resistor was for that exact trace. The one I pulled appears to continue on to the bottom of the board to a small capacitor.

        1. Pad #3 is connected to the right via hole, just solder some Kynar wire directly onto the hole.

          1. Unfortunately for me, I just tried to do this again and ended up pulling the pad next to it.

            It’s clear to me that I need to work on my skills before attempting this again.

            I’m a little disappointed that I did more bad than good the second time around. Thank you for your article and responses to my comments. I appreciate it!

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